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delawareonlineblogs — Wed, 08 Jul 2009 16:33:35 +0000

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Reader mail

delawareonlineblogs — Thu, 02 Jul 2009 18:55:00 +0000

Happy early Fourth of July, my little firecrackers.

I know most of you are probably already starting the weekend early. That’s my plan.

I’m taking a break until July 13. I may have some updates while I’m away, but, to be honest, I’m looking forward to some R&R, a few good books, a little 5K training, umbrella drinks and great meals with family and friends.

(Looking forward to seeing my good buddies from New York, Virginia and Miami! Great things are planned….)

Friday’s Taste column is on the new Kooma Asian Fusion Restaurant & Sushi Bar at the Wilmington Riverfront.. Here’s the link.

I promised you information on Chifa and Zahav, two wonderful Philadelphia restaurants that I recently visited. Please stay tuned – more is coming – but at a later date.

Meanwhile, the great crab cake search continues and I’m making some progress…I’ll fill you in when I return.

Some places to ponder while I’m gone…..

- David M. Dietz’s new BBC Tavern & Grill in Greenville – at the former Pizza by Elizabeths site in One Greenville Crossing, at 4019 Kennett Pike- should be coming soon. Executive chef is Mark Doto, formerly of Iron Hill Brewery, Domaine Hudson and Zanzibar Blue.

- The Club Bistro & Pub in Pike Creek from chef Jamie Wiest should be opening any day. Wiest purchased the former Three Little Bakers dinner theater last November and gutted the interior. The restaurant will have 120 seats in an upstairs dining room and 120 more in a downstairs room. Wiest, owner of DaddyO’s and Chef Du Jour Catering in Elkton, Md., plans to be open daily for lunch and dinner and will serve Sunday brunch. Prices will range from about $12.95 for bistro chicken to $32 for prime-cut rib-eye. Other menu options will include day boat scallops and veal Milanese. Wiest says he has hired an executive pastry chef who will make all the breads and desserts for the eatery.

OK, onto the mailbag. You ask. We answer. Every Friday. (Unless it’s a holiday or we have a pressing engagement with a blender drink and beach chair….) Email me at ptalorico@delawareonline.com.

QUESTION: Hi Patricia, I’m a huge fan of your reviews and I love the blog!

I was recently traveling through Dover and stopped into Pizzadili for lunch (for the first time). They had the best pastrami sandwich I have had in a long time. It was the real, fatty, tasty pastrami and I can’t find it anywhere.

Do you know of any places where I can purchase pastrami like that (does Pizzadili sell it)? It seems all the supermarkets in New Castle County only sell the lean kind. Also, my dining companion said Pizzadili had the best cheesestake they have ever had.

Thanks,
Therese

ANSWER: Hi Therese. You’re making me hungry and that sandwich sounds amazing. Have you tried Bachetti Brothers on Kirkwood Highway? It’s an excellent meat market.

QUESTION: Patricia, Thank you for replying to my rambling question(s). I am truly sorry for not clearly stating what I was looking for in a restaurant. One that has a lovely menu consisting in hearty dishes made with love….fresh ingredients, succulent proteins (such as lamb shanks) that are flavorful and so very tender. I myself am not typically a fan of ANY of the three types Ds in which Guy Fieri has decided to dedicate his show – especially those I’ve vevtured to try around the tri-states. Many of the places he visits now (several seasons into his show) are “gems” and not what you might expect from a diner, drive-in OR dive.I thank you for your recommendation and look forward to trying it out )
I also look forward to keeping up with your finds )

Thanks again,
Lora

ANSWER: Lora, you weren’t rambling. I just wasn’t sure how to answer your query. I hope I helped. (Here’s the previous letter.)

Barbecuing for the weekend

delawareonlineblogs — Thu, 02 Jul 2009 15:42:00 +0000

I know you’ll be firing up the grill sometime this weekend and if you’re looking for some new recipes, consider a few that ran in the Life section yesterday.

The theme was red, white and blue foods - but we’re not talking about kitschy blue Jell-o and the like.

One of my favorite recipes is for Thai barbecued chicken that gets it heady aroma from a combination of coconut milk, fish sauce, lime juice, onion, garlic, ginger and cilantro. It’s so different than the usual run-of-the-mill barbecue sauce. I made it last weekend – definitely let it soak for at least 4 hours – and it was a winner.

(One quibble, I slightly burned the chicken thighs. My gas grill gets scorching hot and I need to embrace the indirect cooking method more often.)

THAI BARBECUED CHICKEN

Adapted from Barbara Scott-Goodman’s “The Beach House Cookbook” (Chronicle Books, 2005.)

1 cup coconut milk
1/3 cup Asian fish sauce
1/4 cup fresh lime juice
4 cloves garlic, minced
1-inch piece fresh ginger, peeled and chopped
2 shallots or 1 medium onion, chopped
1 teaspoon hot sauce
1 teaspoon red pepper flakes
1 1/2 tablespoons sugar
1/2 cup chopped fresh cilantro
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 chicken (2 1/2 to 3 pounds), cut into 10 pieces or 8 chicken thighs (bones in)
6 scallions, trimmed and minced, and lime wedges for garnish

Combine the coconut milk, fish sauce, lime juice, garlic, ginger, shallots (or onion), hot sauce and red pepper flakes, sugar, cilantro, and salt and pepper to taste in a blender and blend until smooth. Put the chicken in a large nonreactive bowl or baking dish. Pour the mixture over the chicken and marinate for 4 hours in the refrigerator, turning the chicken occasionally.

Prepare a gas or charcoal grill. When the fire is medium-hot, and the coals are covered with a light coating of ash and glow deep red, put the chicken on the grill, bone side down. Cover and cook for about 15 minutes. Turn and cook, skin side down, covered, until the juices run clear, 12 to 15 minutes.

Transfer the chicken to a platter, garnish with the scallions and limes, and serve at once. Makes 6 servings.

Since I’ll be shopping at the Lewes Farmers Market this weekend, I plan to pick up some berries and make this dessert on Saturday. Happy Fourth of July!

MIXED BERRY SLUMP

This dessert from Rick Rodgers’ “Summer Gatherings” (William Morrow, 2008) is made on the stove.

4 pints berries, such as blueberries, blackberries, raspberries, and hulled, sliced strawberries
3/4 cup sugar, or more to taste
1/2 cup fresh orange juice
4 tablespoons unsalted butter
2 tablespoons cornstarch, dissolved into 1/4 cup water
Dumplings
2 cups all-purpose flour
3 tablespoons sugar
2 teaspoons baking powder
1/4 teaspoon salt
8 tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted butter, chilled and thinly sliced
2/3 cup whole milk
1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract
Vanilla ice cream

Combine the berries, sugar, orange juice and butter in a nonreactive, heavy-bottomed saucepan or Dutch oven. Bring to a boil over medium heat, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Cook until the berries give off their juices, about 5 minutes. Stir in the dissolved cornstarch and return to the boil. Reduce the heat to medium-low.

Meanwhile, make the dumplings. Whisk the flour, sugar, baking powder, and salt in a bowl. Add the butter, and using a pastry blender or a large fork, cut the butter into the flour mixture until the mixture looks crumbly with a few pea-size pieces of butter. Mix the milk and vanilla in a measuring cup and stir into the flour mixture.

Drop the dough by heaping teaspoons into the simmering berries to make 16 dumplings. Cover the saucepan and simmer until the dumplings are cooked through, about 20 minutes.

Remove the pan from the heat and let stand, with the lid ajar, to cool slightly, about 10 minutes. Serve the berries warm in individual bowls, each serving with 2 dumplings and a scoop of ice cream. Makes 8 servings.

Organic? Who cares…

delawareonlineblogs — Wed, 01 Jul 2009 23:06:00 +0000

Russ Parsons totally rocks.

The Los Angeles Times food writer is a tell-it-like it is kind of guy. And when it comes to the whole organic food movement, well, he’s not so impressed. He shares why.

I met Russ a few months ago after he gave a talk at Longwood Gardens and walked away even more impressed with his whole philosophy of cooking, writing and eating.

Russ Parsons totally rocks.

Chef Julio is a winner

delawareonlineblogs — Wed, 01 Jul 2009 14:26:00 +0000

Wilmington chef Julio Lazzarini may have gotten “Chopped” last night on the Food Network, but he emerged from the TV reality culinary competition as a true winner.

Lazzarini, owner of Orillas Tapas Bar & Restaurant on Market Street, showed poise, professionalism, dedication and respect for his craft. He made Delaware’s culinary community extremely proud.

It was a pleasure to watch the 34-year-old, a student of nuevo Latino cuisine who once trained under celebrity chef Douglas Rodriguez, calmly move in the kitchen and perform with grace under pressure.

Lazzarini stayed true to his food, but he also thought fast on his feet. There was no trash talking from the chef – just a clear, steady aim to cook the best food he could.

At one point, Lazzarini said he was “definitely feeling the pressure of the clock.” But he didn’t let it show.

Indeed, his clear diligence even earned the admiration of judges Aaron Sanchez and Scott Conant, two very demanding chefs who are not often given to praise. They were clearly impressed by Lazzarini’s talents.

“Chopped” is a TV cooking competition where four chefs are handed a basket of “mystery” ingredients that they have to turn into a meal in a short amount of time. At the end of each round, one chef is “chopped” until the last one standing collects $10,000.

The first round called for using beef shoulder (a tough cut that is better suited to long cooking periods), Asian fish sauce and canned pumpkin.

Lazzarini turned out a seared beef dish with a Korean inspired barbecue that Conant praised: “I think the sauce is special. The Korean barbecue was really tasty.”

The second round required the use of flounder, watermelon, plantains and baby bok choy.

Lazzarini whipped up lemon glazed flounder. “Delicate, extremely flavorful,” Sanchez cooed, though Lazzarini was chastised for having bones in his fish filet.

“You can tell he’s trying very hard,” Conant added.

Lazzarini moved onto the dessert round which called for a 30-minute dessert made with tomatillos, creme fraiche and plain doughnuts. Yowsa.

When competitor New York chef Marc Spooner sliced his finger – and began bleeding on the cutting board – it looked liked Lazzarini was walking away with the cash.

But the judges chose Spooner’s doughnut fritters over Lazzarini’s French toast inspired doughnut dessert.

Still, it was a very close battle and Conant said the two chefs were “neck and neck.”

Last night, I dropped into Orillas before the show. Outside of the restaurant, Lazzarini was cooking a huge pan of paella for customers who had stopped in watch the show.

No amount of nudging or prodding would get him to tell us how he did, but Lazzarini had a huge smile on his face as he served up a wonderful paella made with mussels, clams and chorizo.

With Chef Lazzarini, it’s all about the food. And that makes him – and his customers – winners.

Fishing for a good sandwich?

delawareonlineblogs — Tue, 30 Jun 2009 17:59:00 +0000

I dropped into the Wilmington Riverfront Market today for lunch and it was first day opening for the new Harry’s Fish Market + Grill.

This is the new stall – across from Tokyo Sushi – which had been the former home of Lapp’s Kitchen.

Xavier Teixido – who also owns the next door Harry’s Seafood Grill – was overseeing the operations and executive chef David Leo Banks was behind the counter checking on all details, along with a slew of staff.

Teixido suggested I try the fried fish sandwich ($7.95).

It’s an excellent sandwich. The white fish – (sorry, I started chatting and forgot to ask what kind!) – is breaded and fried crisp. It’s served on a LeBus roll that’s slathered with spicy Sriracha aioli and packed with snow pea sprouts, lettuce, tomato and onion. A pickle comes on the side. The fish was meaty, moist and very fresh tasting. I just inhaled it and I’m already thinking about what I just ate.

The menu includes fish and chips and coleslaw ($8.95), crabcake sandwich ($11.95), fried scallops and chips ($9.95); burgers and cheeseburgers range from $4.50 to $6.25. Hand-cut fries are $3.95.

Breakfast of beignets – 3 for $4.50 and New Orleans coffee ($1.50 medium; $1.95 large) is supposed to start tomorrow. Yippee.

This is a really nice addition to the market.

Attaboys all around.

FOOD DOGs | Cheesecake anyone?

delawareonlineblogs — Tue, 30 Jun 2009 17:55:00 +0000

By ANDRE SMITH

As a part of Christiana Mall’s redevelopment plan, it announced today that THE CHEESECAKE FACTORY chain will open a stand-alone store in 2010.

Can you say, ‘Outstanding!?’

Attention Francophiles

delawareonlineblogs — Tue, 30 Jun 2009 15:16:00 +0000

Headed out tonight to a book party for “Au Revoir to All That: Food, Wine, and the End of France.”

It’s written by Slate wine columnist - and Hockessin resident – Michael Steinberger, who just so happens to be married to my old pal Kathy.

The book has already gotten nods in Gourmet and New York magazine.

I love this blurb from Marco Pierre White:

“One of the greatest books I’ve read.”

Now, that’s cool.

Frozen falafel

delawareonlineblogs — Mon, 29 Jun 2009 16:42:00 +0000

New York City’s annual Fancy Food Show is underway now through Tuesday. I was scheduled to attend the show – that is, until recent illness unfortunately curtailed my activities. So no roaming the Javits Center which features something like four football fields full of 140,000 plus specialty food/beverage products.

(This show is always a crazy food circus – Chicago chef Rick Bayless who just won last week’s Top Chef Masters competition was making tacos there yesterday! - and I’m pretty bummed to be missing out on the activities.)

While this is no substitute for attending the show, I will share a new product that I just tried from Veggie Patch, one of the fastest growing brands in the $300 million meat alternative retail market.

OK, so I’m not much of a frozen food fan, but I enjoyed the new Falafel line, which is fully cooked, spiced chickpea balls. (Three meatballs are about 80 calories.)

The meatballs, which are frozen or can be refrigerated, are flash fried and oven baked. You just zap ‘em in the microwave and eat in a pita or as a side dish or appetizer. No artificial ingredients and trans-fat free.

I’ve topped them with a homemade tzaziki (Greek yogurt with shredded cucumbers) or hummus. Tahini also is good. It’s a quick, good lunch or light dinner.

You can find Veggie Patch Falafel at Acme Market, Costco Wholesale, Pathmark and Shop Rite.

Chopped or crowned?

delawareonlineblogs — Mon, 29 Jun 2009 15:34:00 +0000

Tune in to the Food Network on Tuesday to see if Wilmington chef Julio Lazzarini walks away with $10,000 or gets “Chopped.”

Lazzarini, owner of Wilmington’s Orillas Tapas Bar & Restaurant, is one of four contestants on the food competition series that airs at 10 p.m.

“Chopped” challenges four chefs to turn mystery ingredients into a dish. According to the web site, the chefs are cooking with whole calamari, bison meat and ancho chilies.

Plates are judged on taste, creativity, and presentation.

After each course, a contestant gets “chopped” until the chef left standing collects the cash.

The show was taped in April in New York City and Lazzarini is sworn to secrecy about the outcome.

But he does have a viewing party planned Tuesday at the Market Street restaurant. Call 427-9700 for more information.